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April 22
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Heyy guyss just wanted to say a MASSIVE THANK YOU for all the birthday wishes, while there was no way I could reply to all of them, I certainly read them all!

You guys are awesome :hug: 

Heart Heart Hug Hug Dance! Dance! 

Second news of the day: I updated my Youtube channel art AND name, yes name, to better match the art tutorial website I've been working on with a couple friends in the past months.

Anyways, I say everything that I can in this video, check it out!




And here is a tutorial on painting with values, hope you like!


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:icongekitsu:
gekitsu Featured By Owner May 28, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
i am somewhat late on this, but what could be helpful in decyphering the dilemma of how photoshop ends up distributing saturation in wacky manners is the munsell colour system. the nice thing about it is that it isn’t all too different, conceptually, from HSB, so it’s quite simple to grasp for us computer types. it’s really just about "dividing" any colour up into three constituent parts, hue, value and chroma.

where munsell shines, though, is that when you make any representation (commonly, it is like a cylinder with value along the central axis, hues radially around, and chroma/saturation is distance from the axis) of the whole colour space, you don’t end up with a regular shape, but something bumpy and somewhat irregular. wikipedia has an ok illustration of the concept at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell#… – the value of maximum saturation for the blue is much lower than it is for yellow. that, to me, was a quite profound insight – when i set down a row of different hues at their maximum saturation each, i end up with a row of different valuesbecause maximum saturation yellow is just fucking brighter than maximum saturation purple. if i paint the row of hues at a constant value, some hues have higher saturation potential at that value than others.

so, as i see it, one part of the problem is that when you have grayscale source material and want it to be a certain colour (hue), there is nothing that informs how much saturation should go where to begin with. so it’s not an easy task to say "make this into that colour" and expect it to magically end up at the saturation we had in mind.

a second, and more annoying part, is how photoshop is really a pain in the ass with its colour picker/RGB colour. it indicates that full saturation is in the top right corner, equivalent to the lightest value, which is rubbish (it makes sense from an additive RGB colour system’s point of view, where 255, 255, 255 is white and 255, 0, 0 is max saturation red, but that isn’t a system concerned with practical colour). so no matter what algorithm you use to apply colour to grayscale, as long as that picker’s system is the basis, nothing in the world will prevent you from doing a little thinking on the program’s behalf, adjusting for which value spectrum is each hue’s "strong suit," so to say.
painter’s colour wheel is a little better with its triangle shape – it recognises that the closer you get to maximal and minimal value, the lower saturation you can get – but it fixes maximum saturation at 50% value, so leaves out the important part as well.

so, i’m afraid i know no better method of colouring grayscale (in fact, using gradient maps, like you do, may be the smartest choice because it allows for the necessary corrections easily), but maybe i could bring some insight into one of the causes behind programs often not being very good with colouring grayscale. it’s not a trivial problem to begin with, and working from additive RGB (or any colour system that presupposes a regular shape for the whole colour spectrum) doesn’t allow for taking many of the practical aspects of colour into account.
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:iconraynetempura:
raynetempura Featured By Owner May 11, 2014
I'm so behind, but finally getting to catch up! This was really a great learning experience. Thanks for posting, Marc! You're awesome!
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:iconpyroesque:
Pyroesque Featured By Owner May 3, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
I love the videos, they are very helpful. :D
Thank you so much for posting this, the only question I have to ask is what brush settings do you use/recommend? 
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:iconmefesto78:
mefesto78 Featured By Owner Apr 27, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
Awesome stuff! I always learn something new by watching your videos. Please keep 'em coming! :)
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:iconsamanthadoodles:
samanthadoodles Featured By Owner Apr 26, 2014  Student Filmographer
Thanks so much for all the advice in your videos! they are very easy to follow and you explain each step clearly and concisely. (-:

Thanks again!!
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:iconmejingjard:
Mejingjard Featured By Owner Apr 26, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Thanks for sharing thoses tutorials :) Very helpfull and interesting stuff !
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:iconmr-glaceon:
Mr-Glaceon Featured By Owner Apr 25, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
That was a great tutorial video! I felt it explained values, and the reason for painting with colors on certain things from the start, a lot better to me. This inspired me to jump right into my first digital painting with my tablet.

I understood from other artists that you shouldn't paint the entire thing with values, then add color, (They liked to go half-way, and paint certain things in color from the start.) but now I know why. The way each color creates contrast from those values can be very different from the other.

Thanks for posting, this was very helpful!
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:iconkiwikuru:
KiwiKuru Featured By Owner Apr 24, 2014  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Waaaaaaawwooooohhhhh!!!!
ive never seen a values video before, but I feel like I've learned a lot from this! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge ;v;
i feel this video is not appreciated enough >D<
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:icontatmf:
tatmf Featured By Owner Apr 24, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
You're a very talented guy - which I'm not - and obviously you don't have to take advice from me. But I think you should prepare your text before you start recording your tutorials.

For those interested, here are how the back/front should be treated :
1. focus : it's basics in most art, your eye can only focus on one zone, which is the subject of the composition, so your back should be a bit out of focus - blurry
2. contrast : not to be confused with the previous one, contrast catches the eye, mostly because by definition it pops out, and because nature associates contrast with danger, that's in ou genes
3. background : background is often less contrasted in a landscape, that's because of light diffusing through the air/fog, this effect make sense mostly if the background is very far

So you're right about contrast, but now you know why. Also you decided to get the background focused. That's unnatural, but it tells the observer the background is worth looking at. So I think this is on purpose but you didn't tell it. That would have been interesting to know.

Anyone reading this : you can learn a lot just by watching photographs on this very website, or popular tilt-shift videos.

About colours vs shades, that's just a common bug of the Hue/Luminosity conversion in Photoshop.
This is not a perception issue, this is just an old error that lasted too long so now if they fixed it people would be confused...
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:iconbluefley:
Bluefley Featured By Owner Apr 24, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Reason I didnt mention is because there is too much to cover composition wise. You mention great points but also forget about a ton more that would fit that list just as well, light/shadow, colors, type of "lens" and how far the camera is from the subject, etc etc. 

I will surely explore the composition topic in more details in a dedicated video in the future, but the goal was to talk about stuff that can only be achieved with values in this case.

And the Photoshop thing, its just how their algorithms work I'm well aware of that. It behaves in a way that is hard to predict and this is the reason why I pointed it out. To not expect everything to translate to colors perfectly.

Could've spent more time explaining things in the video for sure, but unfortunately the extra details will have to wait until next time :)
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